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JeanMarie Brownson: Valentine’s Day is a perfect day to cook for the people you love

JeanMarie Brownson, Tribune Content Agency on

A warming bowl of coconut lamb topped with crispy-soft roasted sweet potatoes is well suited to this year’s mid-week holiday. To ease time constraints, the base of the lamb recipe can be made several days in advance. I also rely on the supermarket for help by purchasing frozen cooked rice, flatbreads and shelled edamame. In a pinch, frozen roasted sweet potato wedges. or sweet potato fries, can stand in for homemade roasted potatoes.

Lamb shoulder, sold boneless and cubed, ideal for braising, cooks to tenderness in less than 1 hour. Leaner leg of lamb requires slightly less time. (Cubes of boneless, skinless chicken thigh can substitute for the lamb; cooking time for the meat should be reduced by half.)

Braising, that is, simmering ingredients in flavored liquid, is similar to stewing, but with less liquid. Broth, wine, even water, can be used, but like in some Indian curries, unsweetened coconut milk makes a fine braising medium, full of richness and flavor.

For coconut milk, use unsweetened canned coconut milk, choosing organic when it’s available. Reduced fat coconut milk tastes great here, and is a good option for a less rich, slightly less coconutty sauce. (If you don’t like the flavor of coconut milk, substitute 1 cup broth plus 2/3 cup heavy whipping cream.)

Any good braise or stew begins with the browning of ingredients. Here, the lamb is browned in batches before onions caramelize in the pan drippings. Fresh garlic and ginger likewise get a turn in the pan before the liquids are added.

While the lamb simmers to tenderness, sweet potato chunks roast in the oven to crisp golden goodness. Add the potatoes to the dish just before serving. Ditto for a pop of green in the form of shelled edamame or peas. A sprinkling of fresh herbs belies the winter months and a squeeze of lime proves welcome against the richness of the coconut.

Coconut Braised Lamb with Roasted Sweet Potatoes

Makes 4 servings

1 1/2 to 1 1/2 pounds boneless lean lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 tablespoon garam masala, see note

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Salt

5 tablespoons expeller pressed canola, safflower or sunflower oil

1 medium-size onion, halved, thinly sliced

2 or 3 cloves fresh garlic, crushed or finely chopped

1 tablespoon refrigerated ginger puree

1 cup water

1 can (13.5 ounces) unsweetened regular or reduced-fat coconut milk

2 or 3 large sweet potatoes, total 2 pounds, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 1/2 cups (about 9 ounces) frozen shelled edamame, small lima beans or peas

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste

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For serving:

Chopped fresh cilantro

2 to 3 cups cooked basmati rice or couscous, for serving

1. Put the lamb cubes into a bowl. Add the garam masala, turmeric and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Use clean hands to coat the meat with the spices. Let rest at room temperature up to 30 minutes (or refrigerate for a couple of hours).

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven. Add 1/3 of the lamb in a single, uncrowded layer. Cook, turning occasionally, until browned, about 6 minutes. Remove to a plate. Repeat to brown all the lamb.

3. Add onion to pan; cook and stir until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute. Stir in ginger puree and cook 1 minute. Stir in 1 cup water and scrape to pick up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in coconut milk; heat to a simmer. Add browned lamb. Reduce heat to low. Simmer, partly covered, stirring often, until meat is fork tender, about 45 minutes. (If desired, refrigerate, covered, up to three days.)

4. Meanwhile, heat oven to 400 degrees. Put sweet potato pieces onto a rimmed baking sheet. Toss with the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil. Sprinkle with garlic powder and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Stir well to coat potatoes with seasoning. Roast, stirring often, until potatoes golden brown and tender, about 30 minutes. (If desired, refrigerate, covered, up to three days; reheat on hot oven to re-crisp.)

5. When lamb is tender, stir in edamame and cook 5 minutes. Stir in lime juice and add salt to taste. Just before serving, gently stir hot sweet potatoes into lamb. Serve garnished with cilantro. Pass cooked rice or couscous.

Note: Spicewalla (www.spicewallabrand.com) makes a superb garam masala blend containing nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, black pepper, cumin and green cardamom. You can create your own blend of these ingredients or you can substitute Madras curry powder.

Easy Garlic Flatbread

Makes 4 servings

Note: Small ciabatta rolls, split horizontally, can be swapped for the naan or pitas.

4 small naan flatbreads or small pita breads

Softened butter or extra-virgin olive oil

Coarse (kosher) salt

3 cloves fresh garlic, finely chopped

2 or 3 tablespoons dried onion flakes, optional

Chopped fresh cilantro

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Put flatbreads or pita in a single layer on a baking sheet. Brush butter or oil on one side of bread. Sprinkle with salt, garlic and onion flakes. Bake until warm and toasty, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with cilantro before serving.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2024 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.


 

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