The first time I tasted this dish was at an Italian restaurant in Los Angeles. I was slightly puzzled, since it had a strong oregano flavor with Greek feta cheese, and wondered why it was served in an Italian restaurant. I did some research and realized that it is in fact a Greek dish.

There are many interpretations of this dish, some with Greek olives added, others with a heavy sprinkling of dill weed, parsley and sauteed onion. I have prepared this many times and come up with a wonderful Seriously Simple version that can be served as a first course or a main course. It takes about 45 minutes to put together, so it’s a good weeknight meal as well as a dinner party dish.

You’ll need a large skillet for this. Here, a saute of leeks and canned diced tomatoes are perfumed with minced garlic and extra-virgin olive oil as the base. The shrimp are placed on top of the tomato mixture, where they roast with a scattering of crumbled feta cheese and lemon-scented panko crumbs.

This combination creates a multitude of textures and flavors. A slightly sweet, crushed-red-pepper-spiced tomato sauce envelopes the shrimp so they cook just until done, while the melted feta cheese offers creaminess and is crowned with a sprinkling of oil and lemon-scented panko crumbs that become golden brown and crusty.

A final scattering of fresh torn mint leaves bring all the flavors together. I like to serve rice pilaf or orzo alongside, if it is a main course. Crusty Greek flat bread is also a nice accompaniment to soak up the juices. To drink? Try a white Greek wine, a California sauvignon blanc or a zesty zinfandel.

Greek Shrimp with Tomato, Feta and Mint

Serve 3 to 4 as a main course, 4 to 6 as an appetizer

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 leeks, cleaned and light green and white part only, finely chopped

3 large garlic cloves, minced

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound large shrimp, peeled, cleaned and tails on

1 cup Greek feta cheese

3/4 cup panko crumbs

Zest of 1 lemon

For garnish:

2 tablespoons chopped or torn fresh mint leaves

Lemon, quartered

1. Preheat the oven to 400 F. Place oven rack on upper third of the oven.

2. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a large (12-inch) skillet on medium heat. Add the leeks and saute about 6 to 8 minutes or until nicely softened. Add the garlic and saute a minute. Add the tomatoes, oregano, crushed red pepper flakes, salt and pepper; cook on medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes, making sure it is thick but not dry.

3. While the sauce is cooking combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a small bowl. Sprinkle the panko crumbs and lemon zest on top, and with a fork blend the ingredients together. Set aside,

4. Place the shrimp, tail-side up, on top of the tomato mixture in an even layer. Scatter the feta cheese over the shrimp. Sprinkle the reserved panko mixture over the top in an even layer. Bake for 15 minutes. Turn up the heat to broil and brown the panko mixture for about 2 minutes or until golden brown.

5. Remove from the oven, garnish the top with mint leaves and lemon quarters. Serve immediately.

(Diane Rossen Worthington is an authority on new American cooking. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including “Seriously Simple Parties,” and a James Beard Award-winning radio show host. You can contact her at www.seriouslysimple.com.)

©2024 Diane Rossen Worthington. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.